PRE-HISPANIC JEWELRY IN AMERICA –

Prehispanic jewelry in America he has left important finds that have influenced the world of jewelry today, and that should be valued by all civilizations throughout time; who have been in the habit of adorning their bodies in some way. From the selection of materials, to the manufacture of an object, as well as attributing meanings and rites to it, adornment is an activity related to the ability to create and thereby distinguish oneself from others, and with it, understand the need to identify oneself as a tribe. .

The most valued materials for prehispanic jewelry they were jade, turquoise and serpentine, to which magical properties and other symbolisms were attributed. Jade is one of the most beautiful materials and was present in pre-Hispanic jewelry, being used above all by the social elite and as an offering to the gods. In addition, opal was among the most used gemstones in necklaces, bracelets, nose rings, earrings and labrets; the jewels, were pieces that hung from the necks of individuals, belonging to the nobility and priests.

That is why, over time, the prehispanic jewelry was evolving in the adoption of techniques and methods that were able to enhance and adorn the human body, with the intention of highlighting individuality, belonging to a particular social group, as well as indicative of gender, marital status and age, as for example is done nowadays when getting married, when each spouse puts on his ring as a symbol indicating being married.

This is how, the prehispanic jewelry of ancient civilizations, was characterized by designing and making jewelry that followed certain patterns of use, within the context of the craft traditions that at that time were established according to the criteria of those who handled this field. Therefore, it can be said that the entire process was aimed at fulfilling a social function and transmitting meanings; from the very selection of the raw materials to elaborate the designs, the size, the shape, the size, etc.

Among the most important materials in the prehispanic jewelry, there was the metal, since for ancient societies it was a symbol of transformation, continuity and regeneration, which was transmitted to each piece that was made; so it is mostly observed that the designs were almost always related to magical powers; which were transferred to their owners through religious rituals and ceremonies, which made jewelry more than a decorative object, an element with its own energy.

Each one of these aspects is known, thanks to a very important source of information, such as the «Florentine Codex», which was written between 1548 and 1561 by indigenous artisans; where data on the jewelry of these civilizations was recorded, as part of the cultural heritage given to Fray Bernardino de Sahagún.

Within the type of pre-Hispanic jewelry objects that were most frequently made, there were the masks sculpted with wood covered with very fine mosaics, with obsidian, turquoise and shells; which were used in funeral ceremonies, and were an important part of the tradition and social meaning that was nourished by symbols such as, for example, the labia or piercing that crosses the lip or its surroundings, representing the male hierarchy.

These objects were definitely important in the prehispanic jewelry, Therefore, they were elaborated with great care, by arranging metal rods or other substance, in a cylindrical chamber and at the ends they carried animal heads such as snakes and eagles, so that the members of some tribes used them as a symbol of masculinity and power.

This is how many of the archaeological discoveries that have been made have shown that this jewelry is rich in supreme goldsmith techniques; proving that these civilizations elaborated diadems with ornaments in stones such as turquoise, gold feathers, among others. Also, in the prehispanic jewelry One of the most used procedures was the ancient technique of lost wax, which allowed large molded designs to be made.

It is good to note that turquoise was highly appreciated by these civilizations, and became the preferred semi-precious stone for the elaboration of artistic and liturgical objects; that required the heating of the stones due to its complex elaboration processes.

On the other hand, the prehispanic jewelry He used materials such as beeswax and white copal to make jewelry; as well as bells used to decorate some designs and to provide them with their harmonious sound and special touch; in various jewels of circular, rectangular, square, hook-shaped, made of minerals such as gold and silver; which were generally used by inserting into the earlobe.

Each of these vestiges of the pre-Hispanic era are part of the cultural baggage that has been preserved throughout history, and that today has found support in famous designers who use some details of this type of jewelry in their collections.