You chrysanthemums are a symbol of autumn, with their vibrant colors and jewel tones. To tempt gardeners, these flowers are usually sold in full bloom. While it’s nice to have them colored already and even better to know exactly what color you’re buying, flowers in full bloom can mean they’re past their climax.
This might be a good one if all you want is a seasonal decoration, but not a good one if you expect a hardy perennial. Plant them in the spring so they have enough time to take root, and they will flower for several years.
They provide wonderful fall color and work great to fill in spaces where summer flowers have faded, especially considering they can quickly reach up to 90 cm in height. Look for plants with a lot of closed buds to bloom until fall.
Botanical Name Chrysanthemum morifolium
Popular name Chrysanthemum
plant type herbaceous perennials
mature size 60 cm to 90 cm tall
sun exposure full sun
soil type rich and moist
soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time End of summer and autumn
Flower Color Gold, white, off-white, yellow, bronze (rust), red, burgundy, pink, lavender and purple
native area of Asia and Northeastern Europe
toxicity toxic for pets
Care for the Chrysanthemum
For chrysanthemums to be really hardy, they need time to establish themselves in the ground. Ideally, they are best planted in the spring and allowed to grow all season.
Planting these specimens in the garden in late summer or early fall does not guarantee enough time for the plants to become established. However, this is not a problem in warmer climates, where a little pruning will satisfy most chrysanthemums after flowering, but in areas with subzero winters, perennials need strong roots to anchor them in the soil. Repeated freezing and thawing of the soil will kill the roots.
Plants in spring will have plenty of time for root growth. Many gardeners are surprised that their chrysanthemums begin to bloom in mid to late summer. If you want autumn flowerswill need to prune the plants periodically during the summer.
Start when your plants are about 10 cm to 12 cm tall and repeat every two to three weeks until mid-summer. This will make them fuller and thicker, and by the end of summer they should be covered with flower buds.
Light
Although chrysanthemums can handle partial shade, you’ll get better results in full sun. Chrysanthemum flowers are “photoperiodic”, which means they bloom in response to the shorter days and longer nights experienced in the fall. Therefore, do not plant chrysanthemum flowers near street lights or night lights; artificial lighting can wreak havoc on the cycle.
Ground
They all prefer fertile, well-drained soils with plenty of organic matter or worked compost. And they like a soil with a slightly acidic pH.
Water
Chrysanthemums prefer soil evenly moist. Water the plant when the top soil is dry. If watering in a pot, water the surface of the soil using a watering can until it starts to run from the bottom of the pot. Check the pots for drainage holes before using them. The soil must remain moist, but not soakedwhich can cause root rot and disease.
Temperature and Humidity
In warmer climates, consider heat delay. If you have high temperatures, particularly at night, this can cause the plant to flower later than usual.
Heat delay can cause irregular flower buds, erratic flowering, plant crown deformation, and other developmental problems. To get around this problem, look for crops with a higher heat tolerance.
They can handle cold temperatures, even more so in hot climates. In order for those planted in the fall to have a better chance of survival in cold areas, you need to give the roots and crown of the plant extra protection. First, leave the foliage on the plants until spring.
Do not prune them back after frost turns them brown. Then cover the plants with at least four to six inches of mulch or dig up and plant in a pot and move the plants to a more sheltered spot in the garden for the winter. If you choose to move the plants, do so before the first frost.
Fertilizer
It is crucial to feed the chrysanthemums during the vegetative stage. Use a 20-10-20 fertilizer when planting and during the vegetative growth period. Superphosphate helps with root development. Once established, switch to a 5-10-5 liquid fertilizer.
The general rule is to start after all danger of frost has passed. That way, any regrowth forced by the nutrients won’t be in danger of damage from freezing weather. Established plants should not be fed past mid-summer so that new growth is not stunted by the cold.
Propagation of Chrysanthemums
You can propagate chrysanthemums in three ways: division, seeds and cuttings. The simplest and fastest method will be through division.
- Division: Divide plants that have grown in the garden for at least two years. Younger plants will not have enough root system to survive. Every third spring, divide the chrysanthemums to rejuvenate them. Do this in the spring. Choose plants that are at least 15 cm tall. Be careful not to damage the roots. Replant at least 45cm apart.
- Seeds: They can be grown from seeds, but it’s best to use purchased seeds. If you try to plant seeds from your own plants (most are hybrids), the resulting plant may not be true to the original. If you’re okay with an unexpected result, then go for it. Start sowing indoors, and harden the plants before moving them outdoors.
- Pruning: This is an excellent method to get a replica of the plant you have. It ends the mystery of the seeds. But this method has extra steps, you have to cut a stem at least 10 cm, prune the lower leaves, dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, plant it in a container, wait about four weeks or so for the root grow and for the plant to grow another 5 cm, then take it outside.
Potting and Replanting
Replanting is the single most important thing you can do to increase the longevity of your chrysanthemums. Most of them are completely attached to the roots when you receive them. When the roots occupy the entire pot, it becomes very difficult for the soil to retain water.
To replant, choose a container that is slightly larger than the last one. Fill the bottom of the new pot with good quality soil. Break as many roots as you can, but don’t damage them.
When you place the plant in the new pot, the surface of the soil should be an inch below the rim of the new pot. Make sure you have soil and not air around the roots. Compact the soil gently. Water the pot well until it runs from the bottom.
*Via The Spruce