Which basic test methods are available for aquaristics
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There are many different ways to control water values in the aquarium. The various methods are presented here as well as the measured values to be checked.
It is important to know how valid the measured values of the individual methods are
- test strips
- drip tests
- Electronic measurement devices
Benefits of test strips
- easy to use
- carried out quickly
Disadvantages of test strips
- relatively expensive in the long run
- often inaccurate
- not available for all water parameters
- with combination strips, with several tests on one strip, tests are wasted if e.g. B. only one value is required
Advantages of drop testing
- available for many water values
- good drop tests are more accurate than test strips
- cheaper in the long run than strip tests
Disadvantages of drop tests
- complex handling
- direct contact with chemicals
Advantages of electronic measuring devices
- the cheapest solution depending on use
- partially easy handling
- partially usable as a long-term test
- partially usable for control and regulation
- good devices measure with regular care, e.g. B. calibration, very accurate
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Disadvantages of electronic measuring devices
- expensive to buy
- not available for all water values at prices that aquarists can afford
areas of application
- Strip tests – for a quick, rough overview of whether there have been any significant changes
- Drop tests – actually the standard method
- electronic measuring devices – regular, frequent measuring; Regulation of values, e.g. B. pH
The most important tests and water parameters for all aquarists
Some water values should be measured regularly by beginners in aquaristics after setting up the aquarium. A feeling for certain processes in the aquarium, which are crucial for the health of the fish, arises relatively quickly. With increasing experience, the water parameters are checked less and less.
- Determine how soft or hard the water is
- Are relatively constant values
- Without special measures, the values in the tap water correspond to the later values in the aquarium.
- You can have it measured in the aquarium shop or ask at the waterworks
- Are rough guide values, which fish species can be maintained
- Can be changed by water treatment, e.g. B. with osmosis systems or ion exchangers
PH value
- Determines how acidic the water is
- Water with a pH of 7 is neutral.
- Water with a pH greater than 7 is alkaline.
- Water with a pH of less than 7 is acidic.
- Many fish prefer slightly acidic water.
- The pH value in the aquarium differs from the pH value in tap water.
- The pH is affected by carbon dioxide, e.g. B. by the respiration of fish and the consumption of plants.
- After transport, e.g. B. to the aquarium shop, can no longer be determined reliably because carbon dioxide escapes through decanting and shaking.
- The pH value must always be measured on site at the aquarium.
- Small changes in pH can be achieved by fertilizing with carbon dioxide or peat.
- Larger changes in pH can be achieved by changing the carbonate hardness.
- Is a breakdown product of the metabolism in the aquarium
- Nitrite is toxic to fish.
- Nitrite should not be detectable if possible.
- Increased nitrite values can indicate polluted water, e.g. B. by too many fish.
- Good nitrite tests must also show low nitrite values of less than 0.3 mg/litre.
- Is a breakdown product of the metabolism in the aquarium
- Used by plants as a nutrient
- Should not be too low and not too high
- Tap water often contains a lot of nitrate.
- High nitrate levels can lead to algae plagues.
ammonium/ammonia
- Are decomposition products of the metabolism in the aquarium and precursors of nitrite
- Depending on the pH, there is more ammonium or ammonia present.
- Ammonia is very toxic to fish.
- Many deaths despite undetectable nitrite are probably due to ammonia poisoning.
- Unfortunately not standard in Germany, but highly recommended for beginners
Tests or water values for problem cases
- phosphate – for heavy algae growth
- Iron – when the plants are not growing properly. The test must also measure chelated iron.
- Copper – for unexplained deaths, especially catfish and shrimp
Tests and water parameters for experienced aquarists
- Conductance – e.g. B. to produce water for special offspring
- Redox potential – for early detection of changes. The exact value is less important than observing changes.
discard tests
Nitrate and phosphate tests must be disposed of as hazardous waste.
When the water values should be measured
Suggestion for regular testing:
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The pH value is measured once a week, in the morning and in the evening.
The carbonate hardness is measured together with the pH value. Because the carbonate hardness does not change over the course of the day, one measurement is sufficient. The total hardness is measured weekly in a new aquarium, later a control measurement once a month is sufficient.
When filtering over peat, total hardness should be measured every two days until the peat is leached.
Nitrite is measured daily during the running-in phase until the nitrite peak is over.
Nitrate is measured once a week before changing the water.
The measurements must each be carried out at the same point in time so that they can be compared with one another. The CO2 content changes e.g. B. during the day. The value is highest in the morning and lowest in the evening because the plants consume CO2 during the day. The pH value depends on the CO2 value. Therefore, the pH value is lowest in the morning and increases during the day.
During the break-in phase, the water parameters are frequently measured, especially the nitrite level. In an established aquarium, nitrite only needs to be used after major changes, e.g. B. filter changes, substrate changes and use of medication can be controlled. The pH value is determined shortly after the lighting is switched on and shortly before it is switched off. The comparison of…