▷ Socialization of cichlids in the aquarium

Cichlids from Lake Tanganyika and cichlids from Lake Malawi

Even if both lakes have completely different water values ​​in nature, cichlids from both lakes can be kept together if the aquarium is large enough. The social behavior of most medium-sized cichlids from the lakes is almost the same. The Tropheus species are an exception. But here, too, individual animals hold their own very well against the Mbunas.

Mbuna and non-mbuna

Mbuna are cichlids that live on the rocky shores of Lake Malawi. Accordingly, cichlids from Lake Malawi that do not live in the rocky area of ​​the shore are referred to as non-mbuna or non-mbuna.

Mbuna and non-Mbuna should not be kept together because Mbuna have special feed requirements. All Mbuna are growth eaters, ie they graze the carpet of algae and eat the green stuff and the crabs it contains.

Mbuna therefore need food with a high proportion of plants. The feed should contain spirulina algae if possible. With normal feed, fatty liver develops easily in Mbuna.

All non-Mbuna eat small animals, i.e. plankton or small fish. They can be fed with regular fish food.

Food aside, Mbuna tend to be more aggressive than non-Mbuna. If the aquarium isn’t big enough and the non-mbuna can’t retreat, they’re under constant stress.

Under no circumstances should Aulonocara be socialized with Mbuna. Aulonocara are too small and too peaceful.

In a large tank, say 2 meters long, large non-Mbuna such as Copadichromis and Protomelas can be kept together with Mbuna. These can assert themselves against Pseudotropheus simply by their appearance. In addition to a lot of live and green fodder, 2/3 spirulina and 1/3 normal feed should be given. However, such an attitude is not optimal.

Stocking density of African cichlids

In principle, two approaches have been established for keeping African cichlids. Either the animals are kept in accordance with their natural territories. Or the aquarium is deliberately overstocked so that the aggression is spread over several animals.

In the case of overstocking, it should be borne in mind that individual animals may then attract less aggression, but that the stress in the aquarium as a whole increases. It can also not be ruled out that it is always the weakest animal that attracts the majority of the aggression. A better solution is to provide plenty of hiding spots, such as limestone and larger river rocks.

African cichlids and American cichlids

African cichlids and American cichlids come from different continents and have undergone at least 60 million years of separate evolution. Cichlids from both continents in an aquarium will usually not get along directly.

As a result, a weak threat goes nowhere and actual trifles have to be fought out with quite a lot of force. The result is constant tension in the aquarium.

It is better to socialize cichlids that either occur in the same biotope or do not pay attention to each other at all.

Otherwise, only two similarly aggressive species should be kept in an aquarium. Two species are possible, for example, which defend territories well, but are similar in size and aggressive. In a tank that is intended for two areas by the institution, one can assume that they will arrange themselves.

Larger tetras should be set if possible, e.g. Congo Tetra, so that as little offspring as possible grows, which is unavoidable for many species. Otherwise, additional aquariums will soon be necessary.

Frontosas and Tropheus

The socialization of Frontosas and Tropheus is not recommended. Tropheus are growth eaters and have a very sensitive and long gastrointestinal tract. They should therefore not be socialized with carnivores. Although frontosas are relatively calm, they are still predatory fish. Tropheus will most likely not survive in the company of Frontosas.

Neolamprogolus leleupi and Neolamprogolus brichardi

Both species can be kept together.

Neolamprologus olivacaeus and Julidochromis marlieri

Both species can be kept together.

Possible socializations of African cichlids

360 liter aquarium: Lab. sp. yellow, Mel. auratus, Ps. socoloffi and Ps. accei.

360 liter aquarium:
1 pair of Pseudotropheus Saulosi
1 pair of P. Johanni pairs
1 pair of Aulonocara baenschi “red ruby”
1 pair of Aulonocara hansbaenschi
672 liter aquarium (160*70*60cm):
1 Cynotilapia afra
2 Pseudotropheus zebra
2 Pseudotropheus elongatus
3 Labidochromis caeruleus
4 Melanchromis auratus

Firemouth cichlids and red cichlids

Mostly Hemichromis lifalilii are sold as red cichlids. These should not be kept together with firemouth cichlids.

While the requirements for water conditions and tank setup are similar, in addition to the separate evolution mentioned above, both species are red and see red as an aggressive stimulus.

Both species produce sounds as a threat and to mark their territory. Unfortunately, these sounds are very different. It can be assumed that they cannot be interpreted by the other species.
Depending on the situation, acoustic attacks can even be heard outside the aquarium without a microphone.
How important the acoustics are when threatening can be observed very well with scalars. Rarely does it go beyond a roar between angels who know each other. Even if the balance of power in the aquarium is constantly changing and the breeding pair is always stronger.
2 cichlids that are socialized, although they do not know each other instinctively, have no way of communicating in this way.

The body language of firemouth cichlids and red cichlids is clearly different. Meekis are very quick to threaten laterally with their heads down and the floor of their mouths greatly lowered. Red cichlids usually threaten with a slightly raised head, lowered tail, only slightly lowered mouth floor, spread gills, applied dorsal fin hard rays and less laterally. To do this, they often turn a little around the longitudinal axis.

The strong forms of threatening, the comment fight and finally the damage fight are again similar, so that both types understand each other. But it shouldn’t come to that if possible.

If one animal does not understand where the other animal sets the limit and misinterprets the corresponding threatening gestures and sounds, there are constant territorial violations on the one hand and supposedly unmotivated attacks on the other.

However, there is a report that Hemichromis lifalilii also made threats with their heads and mouths lowered and their gills spread. These were kept together with firemouth cichlids. After initial staking of the territory, no further problems between the two species. Since different species of cichlids are sold as Hemichromis lifalilii, they may be different species.

Basically, the lateral or frontal threats as a specific reaction spectrum of a species always serve the «exchange of information» within the species and is rarely species-spanning. A Pelvicachromis doesn’t care if an H. lifalili looks bigger by presenting its broadside or a T. meeki by spreading its gill covers. The signal is the same: I’m taller than you, so get out of here.

Some aggressive behavior can create strange situations. So it looks strange when a Tanganyika cichlid, whether Julidochromis or Tropheus, fights with a cichlasoma. The Tanganyika cichlid tugs, the cichlasoma pushes.
However, such misunderstandings lead to unresolved conflicts and ongoing stress for both species.

Red cichlids and purple perch

In a 300 liter aquarium, 5 red cichlids and 5 perch, as well as a larger synodontis can be kept. A few Etropiellus are also suitable for the open water.

The red cichlids only rarely pay attention to the purple perch. They are not bright red and are so small that they are not considered rivals for territory, but they are not eaten yet either.
They get chased away every now and then. Therefore, there should be several caves and tubes in the aquarium that the red cichlids cannot fit into.

However, appropriate alternative pools must be available with this occupation. Otherwise, a sensible keeping of these cichlids is not conceivable. The animals must always be able to be separated and buying only 2 animals rarely leads to a harmonious pair.

The problem is that couples have to be found first. This process cannot really be controlled. The result shows, among other things, the division of the tank and which animals are the first to become active in order to divide the tank among themselves. It is uncertain whether this ultimately corresponds to the ideas of the holder.

Otherwise only 1 pair of H. lifalili will survive in the long run. If, contrary to expectations, 2 pairs survive, there will be no more purple perch in the tank.
For a breeding cichlid pair, anything that is near the bottom and visible is an enemy. For this reason, the tank should not be so clearly laid out that a pair caring for the brood can see the entire tank. There should be at least 3 confusing zones between which the animals have to cover quite a distance.

According to a report, keeping Meekis and Lifalilis in one tank failed and there wasn’t much left of the Meekis’ red throat pouches in the end, keeping Lifalilis with purple perch was a complete success.