▷ Green algae in the aquarium | Cause, control and removal

Green spaces come in many different shapes and types. Some green algae form long threads, which is why they are also called thread algae. The so-called algal bloom is also caused by green algae. This species is called Volvox.

Probably the best-known species forms small green dots on the aquarium panes. Green algae usually indicate good water quality, but if they occur too heavily they are undesirable in the aquarium and can even become harmful if they overgrow the entire facility and plants.

cause of green algae

Sunlight offers the green algae ideal conditions. If the aquarium is set up in such a way that, in addition to the aquarium lighting, the sun also falls into the aquarium, green algae develop very easily. Another reason for many green areas is an oversupply of nutrients in the aquarium.

A oversupply of nutrients cannot be processed by aquatic plants. With good light conditions, it is the green algae that process the excess nutrients and thus spread as the first type of algae. While it is certainly possible to prevent too much green algae, no well-running aquarium will be completely free of green algae.

Measures

change lighting

If there is an increase in green algae, the lighting conditions in the aquarium should be checked first. If the sun falls into the aquarium, the aquarium should be shaded or set up in a different place. In the short term, a change in lighting can also cause a reduction in green algae.

Both the light intensity and the lighting duration can be varied. However, these measures will usually not be sufficient in the long term, since green algae also need excess nutrients to live in addition to good light. If you only change the light conditions, you usually only exchange the green algae for another type of algae that gets by with less light.

Prevent excess nutrients

The most important measure against green algae is to adapt the input of nutrients into the aquarium to the consumption of the aquatic plants. To do this, either reduce the input of nutrients or increase the consumption of the plants.

As a short-term measure, you can reduce the oversupply of nutrients by changing the water extensively several times.

Then as many fast-growing plants as possible are placed in the aquarium (e.g. tomentosum or waterweed). Fertilize only as much as the plants consume. The feeding is adapted to the needs of the fish.

The following measures also serve to deprive the algae of their food base:
  • Discontinue fertilization until algae growth stagnates
  • illuminate with modern three-band tubes, possibly with a red component (approx. 3800 Kelvin)
  • keep a lunch break of 3 to 4 hours when lighting
  • ensure little water movement
  • use a slow running filter
  • plant approx. 80% of the aquarium floor
  • Wind up filamentous algae with a wooden stick
  • mechanically remove as much algae as possible
  • Set the CO2 supply correctly
  • fill the aquarium only moderately with fish
  • feed only dry food until the algae problems are gone, so as not to e.g. B. to bring in additional phosphates through frozen food
  • Use Siamese algae mullets (1 barbel per 50 litres).
  • Use racing snails

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