Data sheet Costa Rica cichlid
German name:
Costa Rican cichlid
Scientific name:
Cryptoheros sajica or Cichlasoma sajica
Origin:
Central America
Size:
Body length 12 cm – 17 cm, often somewhat smaller when kept in an aquarium: males approx. 10 cm and females approx. 8 cm
Aquarium
Length:
Length from 120 cm width
Contents:
from 240 liters
water values
Temperature:
22°-27° C
pH:
6.5 – 7.8
GH:
10° – 20° dH
Behave
Area:
lower and middle range
Lining:
any food, in nature: worms, insects, crustaceans, small fish, frogs
Behave:
outside the spawning season peacefully, although they almost always spawn; during the spawning season they can become very aggressive and will attack others
Number:
Keeping pairs recommended
Difficulty level:
Beginner Klaus Rudloff, Cryptoheros sajica, CC BY-SA 4.0
Keeping Cichlasoma sajica
Cichlasoma sajica are also known under the name Cryptoheros sajica. With optimal care, they grow to be 12 to 17 centimeters tall. In the aquarium they often stay smaller. The males are then usually about 10 centimeters tall, the females about 8 centimeters. Adult animals easily claim a 240 liter aquarium for themselves.
Outside the spawning season they are very peaceful. However, they almost always spawn. They are almost reminiscent of the guppy, a million fish. The bottom is reshaped during spawning according to the wishes of the cichlids. When leading young, they have silvery-blue eyes.
Cichlasoma sajica will eat any food.
If they notice movement in front of the aquarium, they like to seek cover under shelters made of rocks or roots. Especially when someone is between a light source and the aquarium. But they are not cave animals.
The total hardness can be 4° dGH, the carbonate hardness 4° dKH and the pH value 8. But they can also be kept and multiplied in harder water.
Cichlasoma sajica can become very aggressive during the breeding season, including among themselves.
Cichlasoma sajica parents with young Photo: Josef Ritter
Especially during the first breeding attempts Sajicas can become very aggressive towards each other. In inexperienced pairs, the male will be attacked by the female, sometimes violently, as soon as the male is near the breeding cavity. Likewise, females can be attacked by males.
The males often eat the young during the first breeding attempts. The female then tries to drive the male away from the young fish. Because males are often larger, this is only good for a few days. After that, all the young fish are often eaten. Even some of the surviving young then no longer maintain the maternal instinct in the female. After a few days all the young are eaten.
The mutual attacks can be so fierce that the animals shred each other’s fins and entire scales fall off their sides.
When both animals have learned the brooding behavior, both take over the care of the brood. As soon as the female swims away to eat, the male takes over the brood care. The young appear to stay with a particular mate by shaking their fins. The other partner then has a moment of free time.
The young have a very good chance of survival. About 49 out of about 50 fish can survive and reach a size where they are no longer eaten by other fish.
After 3 days the juveniles swim away from the brood cavity with their parents. All other fish are driven away from the young. Even a 150 cm tank can be too narrow for 2 perch with youngsters.
All other fish may then stand scared in a corner close to the water surface. Even armored catfish are no longer safe on the ground, but look for high hiding places.
During the chases, the Sajicas can injure themselves. E.g. when they push their way between stones etc. According to one report, a male tore his eye so that it was milky and cloudy. The entire gill cover and sides were torn or tattered.
They also don’t shy away from attacking the keeper’s hand. This is harmless for a 10 centimeter fish. But with a 18 centimeter tall Sajica you can get scared.
Which fish species can be socialized with Cichlasoma sajica?
During the spawning season, Cichlasoma sajica can also become aggressive against other, significantly larger cichlids. They should therefore only be socialized with other Central American cichlids if the species can be separated quickly as soon as problems arise.
Socialization with gourami, e.g. B. the Gourami Trichogaster leeri (1m/1w) or the Blue Gourami Trichogaster trichopterus (1m/1w).
Larger pikelets as fish close to the surface can also be considered if the water parameters are right.
Because Sajica cichlids grow quite large and spawn frequently, it is best to only use a pair of similar requirements and size. For example, green fin cichlids or zebra cichlids. All three species have a very pronounced brood care behavior and drive all other fish mercilessly out of their respective territory.
If only Central American fish are to be kept, the socialization with the greenfin cichlid, C. nigrofasciatum, (1m/1f) may be an option. The planting should then not be given much importance.
The rainbow cichlids, Herotilapia multispinosa, (1m/1w) also come from Central America. These are also usually peaceful. They are unbearable during the breeding season, so that a possibility to move them is also necessary here.
Another suitable species from Central America is the zebra cichlid.
If African cichlids are also possible, a socialization with the purple perch, Pelvicachromis pulcher, (1m/1w) is possible. The aquarium must then be well structured with roots, burrows, etc. so that both species can avoid each other.
Notes on Breeding
If as many young as possible are to be raised, the young are fed Artemia nauplii or boiled egg yolk. Green catfish drops from Dennerle are excellent. Even if the young are not fed in a targeted manner, usually too many young come through.
Sajicas dig holes in the ground to spawn. They also like to spawn in flower pots. These should be changed twice a week to remove any clutches that may be in them. Otherwise about 100 young fish come every 4 weeks.