Data sheet corn snake
German name:
corn snake
Scientific name:
Pantherophis guttatus
Origin:
USA, East Coast
Body length:
approx. 90cm – 135cm
age expectation:
12 – 15 years
Behave
Lining:
Mice, rats and chicks as thawed frozen food
Behave:
crepuscular and nocturnal, peaceful
Number:
Solitary or as a pair
Difficulty level:
Beginner Mike Wesemann, Kornnatter, marked as public domain, details on Wikimedia Commons
The corn snake was named Elaphe guttata after the old classification. Due to its beautiful coloring, it is the most common snake kept in terrariums and is also ideal for beginners. The basic color can vary from gray to brown or orange-red. The belly is always white. Blue to black spots appear here, while a V-shaped marking can be found on the head. With a body length of up to 1.30 m, it is one of the rather smaller snakes. The body shape of Pantherophis guttatus is slender and the head appears rather small in relation to the body.
This snake is crepuscular and nocturnal and searches for prey in its environment during this time. During the mating season, this is in spring, she is also active in the terrarium during the day. The corn snake is sexually mature at the age of two to three years. During the winter period, it keeps a dormancy of about four months.
This snake is one of the non-venomous species of constrictor snake. In its natural habitat in North America, it is often found in corn fields or granaries.
acquisition and maintenance
Only offspring of the corn snake are available in Germany and they are not subject to species protection.
It can be kept as a single animal, as it tends to be a loner in the wild, but due to the peaceful nature of these snakes, keeping them in groups can also be considered. Partners only come together during the mating season. Once the eggs are laid, the care is over. The eggs and the hatching offspring are on their own. During the hibernation, several corn snakes gather together in a suitable hiding place. This can last up to four months and no food is eaten during this time. But fresh water must always be available.
Terrarium requirements
The size of the terrarium described above is a guideline. The tank should be at least as wide and high as the snake is long. If there are several animals in the tank, it should be about 20% larger for each additional animal. It is important to ensure that there are sufficient climbing opportunities. The environment in the terrarium should be rather dry, spraying two to three times a week is sufficient, whereby the sand in deeper layers should be slightly damp. The substrate should be brought in from material that is not too fine. Special soil is suitable for the terrarium, bark mulch, bark litter and sphagnum moss. Fine-grained gravel is also possible. Coarse play sand mixed with coconut fiber has also proven to be a good substrate. Plenty of hiding places should not be missing, upside down flower pots or pieces of bark are well suited for this.
A basin is better suited for water supply than a water bowl. Here the snake likes to take a bath.
A wet box should be available for molting, but other moist hiding places are also possible.
Plants can be brought into the terrarium, but these are not absolutely necessary.
A heater is essential for the corn snake. It needs a temperature of 24°C to 27°C during the day. During the night it can be about 5°C cooler, but never below 18°C. One or two incandescent lamps of 40 watts to 60 watts are sufficient for the lighting. In summer, this can be in operation for up to 16 hours. In winter, up to 10 hours of light are sufficient.
A matter of course is the daily cleaning and filling of the water bowl and the regular collection of faeces, skin and leftover food.
The terrarium should definitely be escape-proof. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps or spaces in between, because the corn snake is a real escape artist and uses every opportunity to escape the terrarium.
gender differences
With young corn snakes, it is hardly possible to visually distinguish between the sexes. In adult animals it is also very difficult. Only a direct comparison reveals that the tail portion tapers more slowly and there are fewer horny scales. A veterinarian can accurately determine the gender with a blood test.
feed and nutrition
In its natural habitat, the corn snake feeds on small mammals, amphibians or reptiles. Birds and their eggs are also part of their diet. Frost mice or rats are offered in the domestic terrarium. It can also be chicks, frogs, fish or hamsters. This food is thawed and warmed to approximately body temperature and fed. Adult snakes are fed every two to three weeks, while juveniles are fed once a week. When the corn snake is molting, it must not be fed. If there are several animals in the tank, they must be fed separately.
acclimatization and handling
A corn snake needs about a week to get used to a new terrarium. After this time, the first feeding can also be carried out.
A corn snake is very peaceful and rarely shows aggressiveness. However, it is advisable to use a snake hook and wear gloves to remove the snake. Should a bite nevertheless occur, it is usually painless and harmless.