Algae in the new aquarium
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Do you have a general problem with algae or have you had the aquarium for a long time and the running-in phase behind you – then you will find the general problem here
> Editorial on removing algae
Algae cope better with unfavorable conditions in the aquarium than aquarium plants. When the conditions for plants are or become unfavorable, algae spread quickly. So that the plants can successfully compete with the algae and ultimately push back the algae, they need good growth conditions. It is important that all required nutrients are available in sufficient quantities. If just one single nutrient is not available in sufficient quantities, the plant cannot thrive optimally, even if the other nutrients are present in excess. The surplus then benefits the algae.
If the plants do not thrive despite regular addition of plant fertilizer, possible causes are a lack of CO2 or unfavorable lighting conditions. The substrate should be 7 to 10 cm high and not too coarse-grained. Since different types of plants also have different requirements in terms of light, fertilization and the amount of CO2, the correct selection and composition of plants also plays a significant role. On the leaves of slow-growing plants, such as the Lesser Spear Leaf (Anubias nana), algae will develop on the leaves over time if the plant is exposed to too much light. In an aquarium with strong lighting, shadowing by other plants must be ensured.
Plants such as the Indian water star (Hygrophilia difformis) have high nutrient requirements and need strong light. If these plants are heavily fertilized in an aquarium with a lack of CO2, the excess fertilizer can lead to a proliferation of algae. A balanced ratio of nutrients must be ensured by adding CO2.
Excess nutrients are eliminated by changing the water. Therefore, frequent and vigorous water changes can be a successful remedy against algae. Even extremely fast-growing plants consume excess nutrients. Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), for example, can grow 10 to 30 cm in a week if there is a sufficient balance of nutrients available. Short-term water changes are suitable, medium and long-term fast-growing plants to eliminate excess nutrients.
No chemical agents should be used to destroy algae, no matter how strong the growth of algae. They usually damage the plants more than the algae and severely disturb the balance in the aquarium. Some of these remedies also contain copper, which is important for invertebrates, e.g. B. shrimp and snails, is deadly.
Common causes of fish kills in beginner tanks and how to prevent them
The most common reason for the rapid and massive death of fish in newly set up aquariums is probably a running-in period that is too short. But other causes can also be considered.
- The running-in period of the aquarium was too short (nitrite value too high).
- The fish were moved too quickly.
- Toxins were in the aquarium (copper from the water pipes, detergents, cleaning sponges, etc.).
- Too much feeding in an aquarium that has not been run in.
Cleaning the aquarium, e.g. B. removing algae from the panes. New cleaning sponges may contain production residues or detergent. Therefore, only artificial sponges that have been thoroughly rinsed with clear, possibly boiling water may be used to clean the aquarium panes. Linen cloths, filter floss and filter sponges are also suitable. Before working in the aquarium, hands should only be washed with clear water, never with soap. Watches, rings, bracelets and other items that could bring contaminants or toxins into the aquarium must be removed.
If many fish die quickly at the same time, there is always a suspicion of poisoning. Therefore, frequent and vigorous water changes are recommended as a quick immediate measure.
If nitrite poisoning is suspected, about 75% of the water should be changed at least twice a day for a week. Mulm is not sucked off during this time and the filter is not cleaned. The amount of feed is reduced to half. New fish should be bought after 14 days at the earliest.
It is safer to check the nitrite level daily and change the water frequently until no more nitrite can be detected. Only when no nitrite has been detectable for 14 days can new fish be gradually introduced.
The aquarium smells unpleasant.
A newly set up and not yet fully run-in aquarium can smell a bit unpleasant at the beginning. This indicates a high biological load on the water. Pollutant-degrading bacteria must first settle in sufficiently high numbers. Water changes reduce water pollution. If the aquarium has a biologically working filter and the aquarium is not overstocked, the odor will decrease after a few weeks.
Stronger stench indicates putrefactive processes, the causes of which must be determined and eliminated.
General problems in new aquariums
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Once problems have arisen in an aquarium, it often takes a while before the aquarium is stabilized and can be operated without problems. Initial problems usually start with excessively high nitrite levels. The cause is usually too short a break-in period or too much feeding of the fish after the break-in period.
Most species of fish eat constantly and do not feel full. From this, beginners easily conclude that the fish are hungry and give far too much food. Finally, nitrite is formed as a result of the biological conversion processes in the aquarium. Newly set up aquariums are often not colonized with enough nitrite-degrading bacteria for the nitrite from the food to be degraded quickly enough. For this reason, a newly set up aquarium should be fed particularly sparingly. Feeding can be completely omitted once a week. If you then slowly increase the feeding to the normal value, which must also be economical, there are usually no noticeable nitrite values.
If the fish show signs of nitrite poisoning, the nitrite content of the water must be reduced immediately by numerous water changes until nitrite is no longer detectable. However, these water changes delay colonization with pollutant-degrading bacteria, so it takes longer for the aquarium to reach equilibrium. At the same time, the many water changes create stress for the fish and act as a burden. This delay must be accepted because the impending poisoning must be averted at all costs. With a good nitrate test, however, the development can be observed and controlled.
In such cases, feeding can be drastically reduced for a few days or stopped altogether. This gives the bacteria the opportunity to multiply and adapt their degradation capacity to the amount of pollutants produced. The aquarium climate then usually stabilizes very quickly.