© Manuel Heiss
Brush algae form small bristly tufts on plants and objects. They are dark green to black in color, but belong to the so-called red algae. Corners and edges are preferred, as well as zones with relatively strong currents. Brush algae are difficult to remove and must be vigorously plucked off or rubbed off. In the case of a severe infestation, they can also overgrow the substrate. Since they are very stubborn and can overgrow everything in the aquarium, they should be fought or removed from the aquarium as soon as possible.
It is possible that salinity influences which type of brush algae grows. At 3 per mil salt, black brush algae no longer grow, but green brush algae.
Causes of brush algae
Brush algae are among the algae for which no simple and generally valid causes can be given.
The following conditions promote the spread of brush algae:
- Water flow – the less flow, the less brush algae
- Nutrient-rich, especially phosphate-loaded water
- low-carbon water
Countermeasures to brush algae
Just as no clear causes for brush algae can be named, there are also no clear countermeasures. What worked in one aquarium was ineffective in other aquariums and vice versa.
To make matters worse, brush algae only react to countermeasures long after they have been initiated. Since they can obviously store nutrients, they continue to grow for several weeks, even with the right countermeasures. In addition, they do not fall off the affected areas until 6 to 9 months after they die.
It is difficult to determine which of the usually several measures carried out at the same time helped. Nevertheless, some measures have often proven to be effective.
reduce flow
Root colored red by dried-up brush algae Photo: Norbert Heidbüchel
Since brush algae like to settle in places with strong currents, one of the most important measures is to reduce the flow speed of the water.
This can usually be easily achieved by throttling the filter.
Increase CO2 content
A higher CO2 supply promotes plant growth and thus the nutrient consumption by the plants.
As a result, fewer excess nutrients are available to the algae. In addition, brush algae are suspected of not being able to cope with higher CO2 values.
lighting
Brush algae Photo: Bernd Schubert
Lighting should be strong, but not last longer than is necessary for the plants. As soon as the plants indicate through their leaf position (usually by folding up the leaves) that they have received enough light, the light is switched off. Any further lighting is only used by the algae. A guide value for the lighting is approx. 12 hours.
The exact lighting duration depends on the requirements of the plant species being tended.
A lunch break for lighting can be helpful, since algae are highly specialized for certain lighting conditions and cannot react flexibly to lighting that deviates from these.
Snails against brush algae
Algae like to be on the food plan of snails. The piano snail is particularly recommended for brush algae. Important when using snails:
- Only use snails if you plan long-term with them
- Snails like the piano snail prefer brush algae – so do not feed them separately
There is no need to be afraid of a snail invasion – Piano snails reproduce very slowly for snails.
Other measures against brush algae
Brush algae Photo: Bruckmeier family
In addition to these measures, there are a number of other measures that can at least help to combat brush algae.
- Create optimal conditions for the plants.
- Use fast-growing plants.
- Cultivate plant species with different requirements, since monocultures use up certain nutrients and nutrients that are not required are used by the algae.
- Remove excess nutrients by frequent water changes.
- Don’t feed too much.
- Suspend or reduce fertilization until the algae are gone.
- Reduce or temporarily turn off strong lighting.
- In low light, increase lighting to improve vegetation.
- Reduce lighting time.
- Avoid adding salt to the water, ie refill evaporated water only with osmosis water or distilled water.
- Changing the light spectrum (light colour).
- Only clean filters when necessary.
- Reduce nitrate and phosphate content with zeolite.
- Don’t let nitrate levels get too high.
- If there is a high nitrate content in the tap water, temporarily change less water.
- Do not let phosphate levels get too high.
- Keep the phosphate content between 0.10 and 0.25 mg per liter.
- Bind and remove phosphate with products such as SERA Phosvec.
- Rinse off frozen food or temporarily do not use it, as frozen food contains a lot of phosphate.
- Every now and then the Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus siamensis) eats brush algae.
- Apple snails sometimes eat brush algae.
- Amano shrimp sometimes eat brush algae.
distance
Echinodorus with brush algae Photo: Maggie Frahm
Heavily infested plant leaves are cut off. Items can be boiled.
If the substrate is infested, the infested layer is sucked out or removed from the aquarium and also boiled.
In the case of a lighter infestation, the affected parts are rubbed off with firm pressure using the thumb and fingers.
The brushes that are detached and floating in the water are removed from the aquarium.
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